Hidden gems on Kilburn High Road: the History and architecture of a fascinating neighbourhood

The facade of Gaumont Theatre, an imposing art-deco former cinema and one of the main sights in Kilburn.

May 10, 2024

Kilburn is by no means on the tourist trail. There’s not much there in way of attractions and it’s initially not the most, dare I say, attractive part of the city. But Kilburn has one of the most fascinating history of all London’s neighbourhoods, and a walk down its high street can provide a potted history of the modern city it is today.

In this blog, I outline some of the things to look out for and why Kilburn is well worth a visit. You can find a map of the main sights at the bottom of the page. The route starts from Kilburn Station, on the Jubilee Line.

Stop one: Watling Street / Kilburn High Road

When you first step out of the tube station, your introduction to Kilburn is the bustling high road. Now called Kilburn High Road, it’s part of what was once one of the main Roman roads leading in and out of Londinium, heading up to St Albans. It’s said that on this road (though it’s not clear where, exactly) the Romans defeated Boudicca’s rebellion.

Across the old Roman Thoroughfare – now an A road – is an iconic bridge carrying the Metropolitan and Jubilee underground lines. This imposing bridge was built in 1914, but the tube it carries – the Metropolitan Line – is much older, and was in fact the first underground railway in the world, opening in 1863 (though it didn’t stop at Kilburn until 1875 – and no longer stops there!).

Stop two: A mural to Kilburn

Kilburn mural - a major piece of street art documenting the history of the part of London

When you turn right out of the station, you’ll also see a large mural under the bridges. It may have seen better days and part of it been graffitied, but this huge mural was the largest public graffiti art ever commissioned in the UK when it was painted in 2004, and was voted London’s Best Mural by Time Out in 2006.

The mural spans four walls and two boroughs (Camden and Brent), and gives you a sense of the history of the area, featuring characters from Kilburn resident George Orwell’s Animal Farm as well as representations of Kilburn’s Irish and Black communities. Irish labourers played a vital role in the modern development of London, following the Second World War, and many of these immigrants lived in Kilburn – giving it the nickname County Kilburn. In recent years, the area has become increasingly multicultural. Community input went into the design, and it was painted by Snug, Dane, Bleach, Busk and Tizer, with help from a local apprentice.

Stop three: Black Lion pub

The Black Lion pub Kilburn - one of the most beautiful pub interiors in London

One of the most beautiful spots in Kilburn is this old pub. It’s well worth a drink to admire the interior. It was built in 1898, and it’s Grade II listed for its intricate Victorian interior. Designed by architect R A Leacock, with artist Frederick T Callcott behind the interior, it features gorgeous copper relief panels and finely etched windows. Without a doubt, it’s one of London’s most beautiful pubs. And in a city full of them, that’s saying something. In 2023, it won CAMRA’s Historic England Award for Conservation.

Stop four: The Kiln Theatre

The Kiln Theatre - one of London's best small theatres

The Kiln Theatre is Kilburn’s modern creative heart. The building dates from 1929 when it was opened as the Foresters Hall. Throughout the 1930s, it doubled as a music hall and community space – which was on occasion hired by Oswald Mosley’s fascist ‘Blackshirts’. Now, it’s a modern independent theatre with a reputation for cutting edge, varied plays. In particular, these plays often reflect the diversity of the area – it’s well worth seeing what they’ve got on.

Stop five: Music Mile (Biddy Mulligans)

Kilburn High Road was once known as the ‘Music Mile’. The area has a lot of links to music, with some of the world’s biggest stars playing at the High Road’s former venues (more on that later), and Ian Dury’s first band being called the Kilburn High Roads.

The area’s Irish community led to a high concentration of Irish pubs and music venues – and although none of these remain, their memories live on. This stop is the former site of one of the most famous venues from this period, Biddy Mulligans – a popular music venue. It’s now a Ladbrokes.

Biddy Mulligans was also the site of the only loyalist bombing in London during the Troubles – targeted by the Ulster Defence Association who claimed Irish republican sympathisers frequented the pub.

Stop six: Gaumont State Cinema

The Gaumont State theatre, an iconic landmark in North West London

The Gaumont State Cinema dominates Kilburn’s modest skyline. An imposing structure, art-deco in style and designed by the architect George Coles, this building was once Europe’s largest cinema – and remains the third largest ever built in the UK. During its time, Buddy Holly, the Beatles and the Rolling Stones performed here. It’s now a church, after a brief stint as a Bingo Hall, but the building remains a monument to Kilburn’s musical past.

Art deco building dated 1930, now housing Primark in Kilburn.

Kilburn used to be an important shopping street, and as you walk along the High Road you’ll spot a number of buildings with impressive facade – such as the art-deco building that now houses Primark.

Stop seven: Kilburn Wells and the Old Bell

A few hundred years ago, a spring of water with medicinal properties was found in the grounds of a pub called the Bell. For a time in the 1700 and 1800s, this gave Kilburn a reputation as pleasure grounds. The spring came to be called Kilburn Wells.

It developed a notorious reputation for immoral entertainment, and due to its secluded nature it was a popular spot for duelling, until duelling was outlawed in 1819. A particularly infamous duel took place in 1772, between the 8th Earl of Lauderdale and General Benedict Arnold, an officer in the American Army who defected and lived in Britain. A railway line cut through the area in 1837 and the pub was demolished in 1863. A pub called the Old Bell, built at around this time, now sits on the old site.

There is a stone plaque on No.42 (currently a Franco Manca) that recognises the site of Kilburn Wells.

A plaque recognising the site of Kilburn Wells, a popular spring in the 18th and 19th centuries

Detour 1: Paddington Old Cemetery

If you’re not finished with Kilburn, then head up Willesden Lane to Paddington Old Cemetery. It opened in 1855, after London’s churchyards began running out of burial space.

A Grade II listed site, nearly 200,000 people are buried here, including several people of high status and with interesting stories, including Michael Bond, the creator of Paddington Bear. Also buried here is the Tichborne Claimant, in an unmarked grave. If you’re unfamiliar with this story, the Tichborne Claimant was a man named Arthur Orton, the son of a butcher from Wapping who claimed to be a missing heir to the Tichborne fortune. He captured the imagination of Victorian England, and although he was imprisoned for perjury, the Tichborne family allowed his coffin to bear their name.

Detour 2: Vijay’s – London’s first South Indian restaurant

You’ll still find plenty of Irish bars around Kilburn. But now, Kilburn is also home to significant South Asian, Arab and Caribbean communities. This is reflected in the restaurants and cafe’s in the area. In fact, London’s oldest South Indian restaurant is in Kilburn, on Willesden Lane. Stepping into the lavishly decorated, old-school dining area feels a bit like stepping back in time. The food is delicious, too.